The road is now pleasantly downhill as far as Mgarr but more than that this is arguably Malta’s most scenic road. It’s a three kilometre stretch, initially with the deep and lush Santi Valley to your left while the low slung Fort Bingemma sits on the ridge to your right. Fort Bingemma was an essential part of the Victoria Lines, a line of fortifications built by the British in the late nineteenth century to guard the costal harbour towns from possible invasion via the vulnerable northern coast of the island. The fort guards one of the few natural access points along the Dwejra Ridge. The views along the road stretch as far as the bays of Ghajn Tuffieha and Golden Sands, while in the distance the steep white face of the Ta Cenc cliffs on Gozo can be made out on all but the haziest of days.
The Tas-Santi road ends on the outskirts of Mgarr where a right turn, mercifully signposted, gets you to the village in about twenty minutes. On the way there is a curious battlemented residence that goes by the name of Castello Zammitello, an old structure with origins dating back to the seventeenth century and now a favoured venue for wedding receptions. Mgarr itself is another quiet village and a closely knit farming community fanned around its oval domed church. There’s a variety of eating and drinking places around the village square and it’s a good place for a well-earned rest and some interesting people-watching.
This walk is not a circular route and therefore best made by public transport. Rabat and Mgarr are served by frequent services from both Valletta and Sliema.