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Valletta, Maundy Thursday

17/4/2014

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The week leading up to Easter is a good time to be in Malta. Whether you are a believer or not is of little significance as the religious celebrations at this time of year can be enjoyed on so many different levels whatever your other-worldly persuasions.  Many locals still flock to the activities out of a genuine sense of faith, even though the grip of the Catholic Church is very much diminished in a society becoming increasingly secular as time goes by. 
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Saint John's - Maundy Thursday
Perhaps the best known celebrations are the Good Friday processions held in a number of towns and villages in both Malta and Gozo. These processions attempt to tell the tale of human salvation as seen through Catholic eyes, with characters representing personalities from the Old and New Testaments, and a number of life-size statues depicting episodes from Christ’s passion. People who take part in such processions normally hail from the village organizing the pageant and do this with great pride, sometimes even doing so as a means of showing gratitude for perceived holy interventions. Notable and popular processions take place in Valletta, Qormi, Zebbug, Mosta and all three of the Cottonera towns. The popularity of the processions with tourists has somewhat dented the sombre air these manifestations were once associated with. 

Not meant to be sombre at all are the Easter Sunday processions, which take place amid fireworks and the mad ringing of bells and where the statue of the Risen Christ is frequently made to “run” by its bearers and cheered on by the crowd – admittedly something quite spectacular to watch. 

Personally I love Maundy Thursday and its air of expectancy, when at dusk the locals traditionally visit seven different churches to pray at the Altar of Repose in each church.  Regrettably this tradition has also become quite commercialized with food stands making their appearance for a quick profit in a number of towns. 


One place that has escaped the marketplace feel and remains a personal favorite on this day is oddly enough Valletta. Whether you are a believer or not you will enjoy the sombre mood in the streets of the capital as worshippers in small groups make their silent way from one church to the next. An added bonus is that practically all the churches remain open till late – most of them dimly lit to reflect the commemoration of the Last Supper and the events which were to follow. A number of churches are must-sees on this evening starting with St.   John’s Cathedral – certainly the city’s premier church. Other churches are Ta Giezu in St.John’s Street where the statues for the morrow’s procession are on display, the parish church of St.Paul and the Jesuit Church in Merchants Street. 

Non-Catholic denominations also commemorate this evening in their way, and there are Scripture readings at the Anglican Cathedral, The Scots Church in South Street as well as the small Greek Orthodox Church in Archbishop Street.  A number of band and social clubs also put on Holy week exhibitions, and though admittedly these are of varying quality, they nonetheless add to the atmosphere of this particular night in Valletta.

All in all Maundy Thursday remains quite a unique experience in the capital, and one I seriously recommend.


The above article was originally published in the April 2014 newsletter of Chevron UK - Malta travel specialists since 1982. You may subscribe to Chevron's newsletter here.
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A Stroll through Senglea

1/4/2014

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Picture
Of the three walled towns that make up the Cottonera there’s no doubt that Vittoriosa (better known as Il-Birgu in Maltese) steals the show with its museums and well-preserved medieval ambience. But to give the cold shoulder to the other two townships that make up this trio of walled cities is to miss out on a slice of real Maltese life.

While Cospicua is awkwardly hedged in between the other two and is a no-nonsense working town and the commercial centre of the area, Senglea is a much better defined mini city, with walls on all sides except for its pleasant waterfront facing Birgu, and easily makes for an hour’s pleasant strolling.   

Senglea owes its name to Grand Master La Sengle who originally built the town around what was then Fort St.Michael in order to relieve the overcrowding at Birgu. Indeed during that particular siege Senglea remained unconquered. It was not so lucky during Malta’s second siege… 

Senglea’s proximity to the Naval Dockyard proved its undoing. The city was heavily bombed and virtually destroyed in the Luftwaffe’s blitz on HMS Illustrious in January 1941. The town’s much loved Basilica was also obliterated. Although the wounds of war have healed and the town has been rebuilt, the social fabric of the place was broken; most of the well-heeled families who evacuated the Cottonera in the war never returned and today Senglea is considered one of the poorer areas of Malta.

What it may lack in financial well being is more than made up by the town’s ambience and sense of gritty resilience: the city walls are still there and the church – well worth a visit - has been lovingly and splendidly rebuilt. Its ramrod straight main street is a delight of faded elegance with some examples of beautiful palazzos which somehow evaded the destruction. The old Fort St. Michael near the city's landward gate is no more but on the opposite side of town is a much visited small garden with an awesome grandstand view of Valletta. The garden also contains a beautifully decorated sentry post – one of the most photographed objects in Malta. From the garden a series of steps lead to Siren Street – probably the city’s quaintest street with views across the water to Fort St. Angelo – and eventually to the town’s waterfront. 

The sunny waterfront facing Birgu is another delight of the town with a smattering of cheap and cheerful eating places and an assortment of small sea craft which make for a colorful location. 

Senglea was awarded a European Destinations of Excellence award in 2010 - a sure sign of the area’s slow but steady regeneration. The town will soon have its first boutique hotel as well. Senglea is served by a regular and frequent bus service from Valletta and is also a popular stop on the touristic hop on hop off coaches. 



The above article was originally published in the April 2014 newsletter of Chevron UK - Malta travel specialists since 1982. You may subscribe to Chevron's newsletter here.

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